Thursday, November 25, 2010

Darlinghurst: Heritage Items: 10-20 Oxford Square

10-20 Oxford Square
- Register of the National Estate, City of Sydney Council Heritage List
I mainly know this square as being the former home of Rogues nightclub, which was this dork, but very popular, dance-music venue that ran from sometime in the 1980s, until morphing in to the equally dork The Gaff nite-spot a few years ago.
I never knew this area - which fronts on to Oxford Street - was called Oxford Square until I discovered the Register of the National Estate list, and after digging around on the Heritage Branch website, I have learned a little more about this historic place.
The area was once part of Burton Street, but in 1887 it acquired the name Oxford Square.
The Victorian Free Classical-style building at 10-20 Oxford Square was owned by the Burdekin family - who were a major landholder in the area - and has the date, 1886, carved in to its parapet. Because this was the year prior to the establishment of Oxford Square, historians have concluded that the Burdekins were responsible for pushing for the area's name change - but they admit there is no documentary evidence to prove this.
I don't really mind so much who changed the name.
The property is also known as the SILF Company buildings - SILF being an acronym for the Sydney Investment Land and Finance company - although those same historians can't find any evidence that SILF ever resided at 10-20 Oxford Square.
Thomas Burdekin left London for Australia in 1828 to set up the local arm of the Burdekin and Hawley ironmongers and merchants. Business must have boomed, for in the ensuing years Mr Burdekin purchased vast tracts of real estate throughout NSW.
When he died in 1844, his fourth son, Sydney Burdekin, inherited the land at Oxford Square. Four years after the building at 10-20 was constructed, Sydney was appointed Lord Mayor of Sydney, a position he held for 16 months until April 1891.
When Sydney died eight years later, the property passed on to his wife, Catherine.
In 1906 the property was purchased by the City of Sydney Council as part of civic improvements and road-widening of Oxford Street.
Over the next 49 years the building remained in council hands until it was sold off in 1958.
Like many historic structures, the two-storey building suffered due to its use as a commercial building, the continual changing of ownership and the dozen or so building applications that naturally follow that change.
The building is presently home to The Gaff, Arum Hair Salon and a doctor's surgery. 
While the top floor of its facade is mostly intact, the ground-floor shopfronts have been modified haphazardly without any thought of the building as a whole. The Gaff's ghastly orange signage is a fine example of this ruin - I'm surprised business owners don't give more consideration to their signage and how it sits on a heritage building.
I have firm ideas about signage and believe the reason the beautiful 1913 Kings Cross Hotel, at 248 William Street, recently closed (less than two years after it was given a multi-million dollar refurbishment) was because of its tacky signage, which was at odds with its stunning heritage exterior.
As an aside, a company called Repeller Nominees purchased the Kings Cross Hotel in 2002 for $8.5 million and after spending a fortune on its re-fit, sold it in October last year for $12.55 million . . .  but more on that in another post.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Darlinghurst: Animal Life: Royston Street's Cat


This cat may appear innocent, scratching his ear on the footpath, but be warned: this cat is very naughty. He's always lurking around Royston Street and when I'm leaving home, I'm quite happy to say meow and stop for a chat. But when I'm returning, I dare not even make eye-contact for fear that he will follow me all the way to my door and then slink inside my building. 
It's happened previously and it was rather annoying, because once inside, he refused to leave and I had to chase him up the stairwell, draw him close and then grab him by the scruff and transport him back outside. 
After that episode, I stopped talking to him, so he tried a new tactic. Playing dead:


The first time I saw him lying there like that, still as a piece of wood, I thought he had been hit by a motorbike and rushed to his aid. But when I went to check his pulse, he rolled over with a long meeeooow, stood up and then wiggled his tail in the air, pleased that he had fooled me. Then he followed me to my building and bolted inside when the door was open. Once again I had to find him, grab him and put him back outside. 
These days, I have had enough of his tricks, so when I see him I clap my hands - once, loudly - and watch him run like the clappers back to his own home:

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Darlinghurst: Art and Culture: King Street Gallery on William: Rod McRae's Heart of the Matter


Walk along William Street on any Friday or Saturday night and it's like a zoo with plenty of gorillas, baboons and apes wandering around without their shirts on and leering at the female of their species. The mating call is usually something along the lines of, ''Hello, ladieees,'' which is accompanied by the gorilla, baboon or ape sticking their tongue out and flapping it up and down. It's an unusual ritual, quite disturbing to see really. 
But while there are plenty of these hairy primates on William Street, never before have I encountered zebras, lions or polar bears . . .  that was, until Wednesday night when I passed by the large windows of King Street Gallery on William.
The gallery was closed, but peering out its windows at me peering in, were an assortment of wild animals. I was transfixed. This was taxidermy of the likes of which I have never seen. 
The dead animals were stuffed and arranged in unlikely settings by New Zealand-born artist Rod McRae, who I believe lives in Darlinghurst. The photograph above shows one such artwork, Mommie Dearest, which has a lioness sitting in maternal pose, caring for a group of little lambs.
Before you have visions of the artist roaming around Africa sourcing his materials with a shotgun, it must be said, all the animals are ''ethically sourced'' and died naturally.
Having said that, it must have taken a bloody long time to gather the rabbit ears used in this artwork:

Rabbits Heart to Heart, by Rod McRae, 2010

And the zebra foal? According to this Sydney Morning Herald story, the zebra was a stillborn.

Are you my Mother? By Rod McRae, 2010.

McRae's work, according to his own artistic statement, is to challenge our ideas about the environment and climate change. This idea or goal is most evident in the work below, which shows a polar bear balancing atop a refrigerator: 

Crying Out Loud in the Age of Stupid, by Rod McRae, 2010.

But it's such a terrible photograph, taken as it was at night, through the window of the gallery, with my little point-and-shoot set on zoom. Yet, just seeing the works through the window set off my imagination, so I can't wait to go and see them properly when the gallery is open. . .

UPDATE: I went to see this amazing and challenging show today and while I would have liked to walk away with Dome of Doom ($1200 and already sold) - a bird's nest holding three eggs, guarded by two small birds, with large, furry spiders climbing a branch towards it - or a print of Operation Foxtrot ($1100, pictured below), or Blessed are the Meek ($1400) - a perfect lamb with a bone in its mouth - I could only afford to take home a copy of a free glossy flier, with an essay about McRae's Heart of the Matter.

Operation Foxtrot, by Rod McRae, 2010

The essay, by artist, writer and University of Sydney lecturer, Court Williams, shed some light on this fascinating show. The most interesting information, for me at least, was that the bunny ears from Rabbit Heart to Heart, were collected from an abattoir, and are basically by-products of the rabbit meat industry. The figures on which the rabbit ears are mounted, are holding pace-makers, which are salvaged from dead bodies because the electronic devices can not be put through the cremation process. It's so fascinating, I now want to see the show again.

Heart of the Matter, by Rod McRae, runs until December 11, 2010.

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King Street Gallery on William
177 William Street
Darlinghurst NSW 2010
02 9360 9727

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Across the Border: Kings Cross: Kings Cross Library


I'm not a bad person. I don't get into fist-fights, or throw rubbish out the window of my car, or say too many nasty things about people. I move around the world with the best intentions. But sometimes life and other circumstances overcome me and things happen, which I don't necessarily want to happen. And I don't know how it reached this point, or this level of badness, but I have a library book that is 4.5 years overdue:


It would probably be more blog-appropriate if this book was about the writer's time in Darlinghurst during the early part of the 20th century. But this seriously researched, niche, non-fiction work, by Joseph Davis, is about D.H. Lawrence's time in Thirroul, near Wollongong on the NSW south coast, during the winter of 1922. It was in that season when Lawrence and his dear wife, Frieda, stayed at a little holiday cottage called, Wyewurk.
During their short stay at the bungalow overlooking the sea, Lawrence wrote Kangaroo, his only book about Australia, which contains evocative, painterly descriptions of the Illawarra escarpment and coastline (please read this paragraph aloud, the writing demands it):

''He loved to wander in the bush at evening, when night fell so delicately yet with such soft mystery. Then the sky behind the trees was all soft, rose pink, and the great gum trees ran up their white limbs into the air like quicksilver, plumed at the tips with dark tufts. Like rivulets the white boughs ran up from the white trunk; or like great nerves, with nerve like articulations, branching into the dusk. . . . And so the great tree-covered swoop upwards of the tor, to the red fume of clouds, red like the flame-flowers, of sunset.''

That last line, so good, is even engraved on a little plaque attached to a rock at a reserve a few doors up from Wyewurk, which still stands at 3 Craig Street, Thirroul, thanks to the D. H. Lawrence Society of Australia
But please, let me try to explain how a book, from Kings Cross Library, remained in my possession long past its return date and then, perhaps, you can forgive me:


It appears I checked the book out at 12.59pm on the 18th of March, 2006, which I believe was a Saturday: 


And the book was due to be returned just two weeks later on April 8. 

But a year later I left Sydney for a period of two-and-a-half years and D.H. Lawrence at Thirroul became lost in the mess that is my bookcase. There's really no excuse for my tardiness. I knew the book was there and needed to be returned and this task hung over my head like an un-submitted tax return. As the days and years passed I worried about how I would return the book. I know you must be thinking, ''Just slip it in the returns slot, you idiot!''
But that would mean I would have an overdue fine hanging-over my head, which at this late stage, at 25c for each day overdue, would amount to somewhere in the vicinity of $385.
And because I couldn't afford such a grand sum, I would never be able to show my face in the Kings Cross Library again, and all of their many wonderful books would be off limits:


Even so, that was already the case. But that was fine, because I was laying low, living in another city, far, far away, where local library staff had no idea about my shameful past, and unknowingly issued me with a library card so I could borrow all the books I liked.
But I still felt terrible guilt as I imagined the following scenario: A young borrower, curious about D.H. Lawrence and his time in Thirroul, skips up to Kings Cross Library one sunny day in search of a book that will sate their interest. They pop on to the computer and run a catalogue search - ''D.H. Lawrence" and "Thirroul" - and bang, instantly a book appears with just such a title. The good borrower beams, jots down the catalogue number and with a bounce in their step heads over to the appropriate bookcase to find the book . . . missing. The good borrower goes to the counter to seek help from library staff, who in turn jab their keyboard for a bit and then, with a shake of their head, say, ''Sorry mate, that one's long overdue. Some idiot took it out years ago and hasn't returned it.'' 
The good borrower's dream of a Lawrentian life in Thirroul evaporates.


So why didn't I just stick the damn book in the returns slot? Because I always knew that one day I would move back to the neighbourhood and figured I would deal with the issue then. And the more I thought about returning the book, the harder it became.
I even dreamt up a plan of a book amnesty, whereby I would bravely walk to the borrowing counter and admit my terrible deed, profess my deep shame and give my heartfelt apologies to the the Kings Cross librarians. 
They in turn would take pity on me, agree to the amnesty and ask me to hand over the book.
It was the best idea I could come up with, so with such intent and purpose I set off today to the library on Darlinghurst Road.
The Kings Cross library first opened to book-lovers in 1958 in a custom-designed building, known as the Florence Bartley Library, with an entry-way on Fitzroy Gardens. The building, designed by then Sydney City Council architects, was so wonderful that the very same year it won the Sir John Sulman Medal for Architecture. Other winners of the medal include Joern Utzon, for the Sydney Opera House (a commemorative award in 1992), the glassy Patrick Bingham-Hall designed NIDA building in Kensington, in Sydney's south-east (2002) and the striking Renzo Piano building on Phillip Street in the Sydney CBD (2004).
Sir Sulman, an art-loving architect who died in 1934 also left a bequest for painters, The Sir John Sulman Prize for best mural/subject/genre painting, which is announced and celebrated each year alongside the famous Archibald Portrait Prize at the Art Gallery of NSW.
But Sulman's post-death imprimatur, and protests by the South Sydney Heritage Society, were not enough to save the Florence Bartley building, which was demolished in 1997 to make way for developers.
I don't know who Florence Bartley was, nor can I recall what the building looked like - history often vanishes without a trace. Perhaps there's a book at Kings Cross Library that could enlighten me? But sadly, at this present time, that source is unavailable.
From 1997 to 2003 the library was temporarily housed in the Rex Hotel building, at 50-55 Macleay Street. The Rex Hotel, which overlooks Fitzroy Gardens, was once one of the swellest drinking places in the Cross, serving cocktails since the 1950s. The Rex remained a hotel until 2001, when new owners employed architectural firm, Burley, Katon, Halliday to convert the building into apartments. By 2003 when this work was complete, the library was booted out and was homeless for a few months until moving into a shopfront at 61 Darlinghurst Road, sandwiched between a sex-shop and a strip joint.
I think this was a fine home for a library and in such a spot could have attracted a diverse new range of members.
But the City of Sydney council was busy beavering away developing the library a new home, across the strip, at 50-52 Darlinghurst Road, a building they already co-owned with supermarket chain Woolworths and which they bought out wholly in 2001 for $9.75 million.
The four-storey building, dating to 1939, is listed on the council's heritage register and is described on the Heritage Branch website as a being built in the inter-war Functionalist style and has a great recorded history.
A year prior, in 1938, the site's sale made the real estate pages in the Sydney Morning Herald when supermarket chain, Woolworths, purchased the land for 640 pounds per foot - ''a record for this area".
The paper said the site was home to the Santa Barbara Cafe, three shops and an old three-storey terrace. Woolworths paid agent L.J. Hooker 38,000 pounds cash for the lot.
''The company does not propose to build immediately,'' the Herald said.
''But has bought the property with a view to future development.''
The Herald was wrong. The same year, Woolworths employed architects Crawford H Mackellar and Bruce F Partridge to design the building that stands today, with its green-grey tile facade.


From the National Library of Australia Archives


Kings Cross Woolworths officially opened, right before Christmas, on December 7, 1939. Crowds ''thronged'' the store and the air tinkled furiously with the sound of cash-registers.
According to the valuable Heritage Branch website, newspapers reported at the time:

"The store level is described as 'beautifully lighted' with a combination of natural light through spacious windows and a unique neon installation. There was 183m of counter space, finished in blonde Queensland Oak, which accommodated 24 departments. 
"The basement was organised as a store-room, linked with the store level by means of a goods-lift for transferring stock. Incoming goods were unloaded at Kellett Street down a broad chute. 
"The first floor contained a modern restaurant and coffee lounge known as, The Balcony, with serving tables and public accommodation based on the latest American style."




The Balcony Restaurant - National Library of Australia

"There was a store-room/pantry running the full length of the northern wall, which provided heating and cooling chambers for food. No cooking was done on this floor. Cooked food came down in a lift from the third floor and was transferred to the heating or cooling chambers. All the latest hot and cold drink and ice cream machines were installed.
"The second floor was set apart for staff, with toilets, wash-basins, lockers, luncheon rooms and rest seats.
"The third floor contained a modern bake-house. This kitchen and bakery was equipped to supply edible goods to both the Kings Cross store and restaurant as well as the metropolitan Woolworths stores."


During World War 2 the first floor restaurant was used as a canteen for the Australian Combined Services and after the war was over, Woolworths leased the floor to the Australian Broadcasting Commission (ABC) for use as a rehearsal space for the Sydney Symphony Orchestra.


The restaurant was ripped out and the space was redesigned by architect and acoustic consultant H. Vivian Taylor to create a large orchestral studio, conductors' rooms and a musicians' lounge, which opened on to the balcony overlooking Darlinghurst Road. 

In 1949 the ABC's news and music departments moved into the building's second and third floors respectively. 

Seven years later then Prime Minister Sir Robert Menzies visited the building to officially open the ABC's television services.

The ABC moved out of the building in 1985, and over the next dozen years or so the space was leased out to various film companies.
Following extensive renovations to the building's interior, the King Cross Library officially opened its doors in December 2004. 
The ground floor is occupied by a City of Sydney council shopfront where residents can organise parking permits and what-not, while the library is spread out over the first floor and a small mezzanine area. The library's flooring is the original parquetry from the Woolworths restaurant and the little balcony is still there, but the council's fixtures are pretty revolting. The check-out desk is like a prop from a Wiggles show, and looks like a giant jellybean. 
Nevertheless that is where I stood today, anxiously waiting for a librarian to come and take my confession. A brown-haired librarian approached. I gave them my best smile and pushed the book forward on the counter.
''I'm so sorry,'' I said.
''But this book is four-and-a-half years overdue.''
The librarian kind of shrugged and said, ''Well, the maximum overdue fee is $10''.
Oh, really?
''Am I allowed to still borrow books or am I banned?'' And then I added, ''I'm really sorry about the overdue book.''
The librarian just shrugged again, as if they didn't take my misdemeanour personally.
''Do you want to pay the fine now?'' they said.
''Do you still have your old card? If not, I can just issue you with a new one.''
So that was that then. A rather anti-climactic end to 4.5 years of worry.
I paid the $10 and walked off with my new library card.

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Kings Cross Library
Level 1, 50-52 Darlinghurst Road
Kings Cross NSW 2011
02 9246 4530

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Darlinghurst: Heritage Items: Burton Family Hotel

Burton Family Hotel
- Register of the National Estate, City of Sydney Council Heritage List
Now home to the Carhartt Store clothing boutique this corner building at 20 Burton Street was built as a hotel in the rum-soaked years of 1883-84.
I'd love to step back in time, loosen my corset and have a cold pilsener at the Burton Family Hotel bar, which isn't too far from my Stoneleigh mansion.
I have a hunch the mid-Victorian building still belongs to the original owners, as the NSW Heritage Branch refers to its ''long term single family ownership'', while the title can not be found in basic, online real estate databases.
I love its large, ground-floor windows and corner entrance and the fact that it has clung to this hilly site for about 125 years.
Because of the hill, the building has three-storeys fronting Burton Street and four-storeys on Riley Street.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Darlinghurst: Animal Life: Digger The Dog


This happy little dog, called Digger, lives on Craigend Street, just around the corner from my home on Royston Street. When it's not raining and he happens to be at home, he can usually be found loitering around on his perfectly manicured patch of grass at the front of his terrace house.
Digger is one of the friendliest dogs in Darlinghurst. When I walk by he never fails to run up and say hello and give me his best dog-beaky smile. If you happen to see him, say Woof for me.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Darlinghurst: Detritus: Christmas Tree

It's officially Christmas in Darlinghurst!
I took this photograph at Taylor Square this evening. 
Happy Christmas dear readers!
And don't worry, I won't be writing a history of Christmas trees in the area.