Showing posts with label Surry Hills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Surry Hills. Show all posts

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Across the Border: Surry Hills: Street Art: Various Laneways

Three Surry Hills laneways. Three very different graffiti pieces. The cute cow (above) was on Richards Lane, just behind the Shannon Reserve, and appears to be by the person responsible for the dalmatians that have appeared with great frequency across the 2010 postcode in the past six months.
The artist obviously likes black and white animals. I hope they move on to monkeys soon. I would love to see some monkeys on the streets. Monkeys crack me up. The cow is saying, ''I'm so glad I go well with peppercorn sauce.''
The monkey, if there ever is one, could say, ''I'm so glad I never evolved.''


This smiley face (above) didn't require the same amount of technical skill or time, but I still like it. It was in Withers Lane, a little dunny-style lane connecting Riley and Crown streets. 

I actually have no idea what this laneway is called. It is so obscure and is located somewhere near Little Riley Street in a weird maze of alleys near Foveaux and Waterloo streets. It's a very old school mural, quite complicated with all those Celtic-style tree branches, and would have taken many studious hours to create. 

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Darlinghurst Blog: Books: Razor, By Larry Writer

The mean streets of 1920s and 30s Darlinghurst are soon to have a national audience when a television series based on Larry Writer's 2001 book, Razor, airs on the Nine Network from July 30 mid-August.
I am looking forward to seeing this show, not just because it is set in Darlinghurst, but because I love period pieces and they don't seem to be made all that often as they are apparently quite expensive to produce. 
Screentime, the makers of the Underbelly series of programs, are producing Razor. Much of it has been filmed on sets but I also understand they have shot parts of it on location. 
Writer's non-fiction book on which it is based will also be re-released to coincide with the television series so I expect there is going to be - if not already - a renewed fascination with this rough period in Sydney's history. 
I first read Razor about five years ago and re-read it recently, this time copying down all the street addresses, so that I could walk through Darlinghurst and check out all the historic Razor-gang sites. 
The book is about the birth of organised crime in Australia and centres on sly-grogger Kate Leigh, who was born in Dubbo, in the NSW central west in 1881, and brothel madam Matilda ''Tilly'' Devine who was born in Camberwell, in south London in 1900.


Leigh (above), who will be played by New Zealand actress Danielle Cormack, began her life of crime at the age of eight stealing from her parents, the local shop and playing truant from school. At ten, she ran away from home and by her mid-teens was running riot on the streets of Glebe and Surry Hills. By her 20s she was prostituting herself to make money for herself and daughter, Eileen. 
In 1914, living with a bunch of crooks in the slums of Frog Hollow, near Albion Street in Surry Hills, she helped plan the Eveleigh Railway Workshops payroll robbery. The famous heist, worth more than 3000 Pounds went wrong however, and Leigh ended up being sentenced to seven years at Long Bay Gaol, in Sydney's south-east.
''Seven years for stickin' to a man,'' Leigh said.
''I'll swing before I stick to another.''
Upon her release in 1919, Leigh decided to make the most of amendments to the Liquor Act, which had been made three years earlier. 
In 1916, 5000 Lighthorsemen and other members of the Australian Infantry Forces, unhappy about their harsh conditions and long working hours, went on a drunken rampage at Liverpool, southwest of Sydney.
According to Writer, this ''unbridled, booze-fuelled violence'' gave the anti-liquor lobby more ammunition and following a referendum, under NSW Premier William Holman, 60 per cent of New South Welshman voted for pubs to change their closing hours from 11pm to 6pm. 
This legislation remained until 1955 and resulted in what became known as the six o'clock swill when drinkers would rush the bar and try to down as many drinks before 6pm as possible - which had its own bad consequences.
Anyway, with bars and pubs now closing at 6pm, Leigh saw a business opportunity and when she was released from jail, opened her first sly-grog shop. Soon after, she had enough money to buy a home for herself and Eileen at 104 Riley Street, Darlinghurst (East Sydney):


And she also rented six premises in Surry Hills (such as 25, 27 and 31 Kippax Street, now demolished) which she used as ''sly groggeries'', including this one at 212 Devonshire Street:


According to Writer: ''At the height of her career, Kate ran more than 20 sly-groggeries.
"Some of her sly-grog shops were upmarket and frequented by businessman; others, said police, 'catered to the worst class of thieves and prostitutes'. 
"On Friday and Saturday nights, crowds of men milled in the streets awaiting admittance to 'Mum's', as her establishments were known.
''From the early 1920s until the 40s, Kate Leigh, as Sydney's leading sly-grogger and with her income protected by her own combative nature and a team of bashers and gunmen, was one of the wealthiest, and most flamboyant, Sydney-siders.
"Another key to her success, she always said, was that unlike many of her less successful rival illicit alcohol sellers, she did not partake of her product.''


Like Leigh, Matilda Devine also decided that the ''straight and narrow life was a route for fools'' and as a teenager began prostituting herself on the streets of London. She was soon making 15-20 Pounds a week, when the average wage was about 2-3 Pounds.
At 17 she married Australian solider James Devine, and at the end of the war she followed him back to Australia, arriving in Sydney in 1920.
Devine, who will be played by another New Zealand actress Chelsie Preston-Crayford, moved from various digs in Paddington, Woolloomooloo and Darlinghurst, and wasted no time in getting on the streets and making money, with her husband acting as pimp.
''Between 1921 and 1925 she was arrested 79 times for her usual offences - whoring, obscene language, offensive behaviour and fighting,'' Writer writes.
''But by 1924-25, she was getting into more serious trouble . . . on a charge card dated 11 January 1925, Tilly is described as a 'married woman residing with her husband. She is a prostitute of the worst type and an associate of criminals and vagrants'.''
Devine served time at Long Bay Gaol for the beating of a commercial traveller and was also sentenced to a further two years for slashing a man with a razor.
Like Leigh, Writer writes, Devine used her time in jail to take stock of her life and when she was released, she set about building ''the biggest, best-organised, most lucrative, brothel network Sydney has ever seen.''
Her first brothel was in a ''slum cottage'' in Palmer Street,  Darlinghurst, where she ''fitted out its rooms with beds and faux-exotic decor and put a red light in the window''.

191 Palmer Street, which became Devine's Darlinghurst headquarters after she moved to Torrington Road, Maroubra, in Sydney's south.

Like Leigh, Devine also took advantage of the legislation, specifically the Police Offences (Amendment) Act of 1908, which made prostitution illegal for the first time, forcing street workers into brothels.
Devine provided the premises for the prostitutes and the women paid her a percentage of their earnings. She also charged freelancers 2 Pounds a shift to use her rooms.
Jim Devine sold cocaine to the prostitutes (users were known as snow-droppers) as it made ''economic sense to foster drug addiction in the workers: it ensured loyalty and meant prostitutes increasingly preferred payment in cocaine rather than cash.''


Cops such as Frank ''Bumper'' Farrell (above left) and William Mackay (above right) policed the streets of Darlinghurst in their unique way. Mackay cut a deal with Devine and Leigh that if they could run their businesses cleanly and without violence, and if they agreed to act as informants on others, they would not be targeted by the boys in blue. 
Farrell, who is the subject of Writer's most recent book, Bumper, published last year, was said to ''inspire a fear in crooks''. Devine would act like a good schoolgirl when he was around. Leigh was not so fond of Farrell and called him that ''Bloody Bumper''.
The cops had a lot to deal with in those days.
Sydney was no longer a small town but a ''sprawling metropolis with a decaying inner-city surrounded by middle class suburbia. In the two decades from 1910, Sydney's population doubled from 630,000 to 1.2 million.''
And the drug trade was ''out of hand''. In the 1920s there were about 5000 drug addicts in Kings Cross, Darlinghurst and Woolloomooloo.
People smoked marijuana and opium, injected heroin and morphine, drank paraldehyde and chorodyne, but cocaine was Sydney's drug of choice.
''Snow was snorted by the rich at parties, by businessman in swish 'snow parlours' where each table had a bowl of the drug in the centre, by vagrants in alleyways, by mobsters needing a belt of courage before pulling a job, and by prostitutes seeking fortification to get through a Darlinghurst night,'' Writer writes.


Not only did the cops have to deal with Devine and Leigh, drugs, sly groggeries and prostitution, Razor also has an ensemble cast of violent crooks, standover men and thugs, such as Frank ''the little gunman'' Green (above left), Phil Jeffs (above right) and Norman Bruhn:


Razor, the book, takes its name from the preferred use of weapon in those days. According to Writer: ''Sydney's criminals had always kept handguns and knives in their armoury, but after the Pistol Licensing Act of 1927 dealt an automatic prison term to anyone with an unlicensed firearm, may outlaws began carrying another weapon:  a cut-throat razor, honed sharp.''
Bruhn, a mate of Leslie ''Squizzy'' Taylor arrived in Sydney from Melbourne in 1926 and within months was the number one criminal in Darlinghurst and Kings Cross. Bruhn and his gang made the razor their trademark weapon. 
''A cut-throat, Bengal-style straight shaving blade could be bought for a few pence at a grocer's or chemist's,'' Writer writes of the proliferation of the weapon.
''Although they could do horrendous damage, a blade, unlike a gun, was not necessarily used for killing. 
"Many victims of razor attacks did die, but the razor was more often used as an instrument of intimidation and disfiguration.''
Bruhn, who lived with his wife, Irene, in a ''seamy little flat'' at 21 Francis Street (below) died after being shot twice in the stomach in June 1927.



Frank Green was the ''most lethal gunman in Sydney'' and employed by Devine to protect her brothels. Green lived at 21 Harmer Street, Woolloomooloo (below), with his wife and children, but also carried on affairs with countless prostitutes, including Nellie Cameron. He was known as a drunkard, a psychopath and cocaine addict and ''wouldn't hesitate to bash up a prostitute if she didn't hand him a cut of her immoral earnings.''
Green died in 1956 when he was stabbed in the heart by his then girlfriend, Beatrice Haggett, at their flat on Cooper Street, Surry Hills.


Phil 'The Jew' Jeffs was born in Latvia in 1896 and jumped ship in Sydney in 1912. He operated a fruit barrow in Darlinghurst before following his dream to be a ''rich crime boss, decked in fine clothes and loved by beautiful women.'' He set out by mugging drunks, selling drugs and working as a cockatoo at sly grog-shops. In 1929, his dodgy drug deals ignited the Battle of Blood Alley in Eaton Avenue, Kings Cross (now an enclosed courtyard off Bayswater Road). 
Jeffs had been cutting his cocaine with boracic acid and when one gang realised they were being ripped off, they challenged him to a fight. Everyone was injured, and Jeffs almost fatally, but he went on to fight another day, even after being shot in his own home in 1929.


In the 1920s, Jeffs worked as a bouncer at the Fifty-Fifty Club, ''a seedy dance hall and sly grog and cocaine palace'' in the Chard Building (above, built in 1924) on the corner of William and Forbes streets.
In 1932 Jeffs purchased the club at a discount price as the owner was tired of police raids. 
According to Writer: ''A visitor to the Fifty-Fifty Club in its riotous mid-30s heyday would enter the creaking cage elevator at ground level, and ride up past nondescript offices on floors one to three before alighting at the fourth floor . . . the doorman would open the door, and frisk guests for firearms and ensure that they had money.
''If approved, the visitor entered a cavernous room with carpet on the floor, slightly tatty lounge suites, decorative palms and flower-filled vases, and deep chairs festooned with colourful cushions . . . guests sat drinking heavily or snorting cocaine from small bowls.''
I walk by this building, now home to Royalty Prussia, countless times, but Writer really brings the history alive. Razor, the book, is worth buying just for this chapter, which includes incredible detail about what Devine, Leigh and their fellow crooks would get up to when they were On The Town.


Other characters in Razor seem more glamorous, such as that of Pretty Dulcie Markham (above left) and Nellie Cameron (above right). Yet both worked as prostitutes and were rough as guts. Markham apparently ''confounded anyone who equated beauty with purity'' while Cameron was ''the most sought after gangster's girl''.


Cameron had a flat at 253 Liverpool Street (above) where she would entertain her clients, one of whom was shot in the buttocks in November 1944. In the 1950s she lived in a flat on Denham Street (below) where she stuck her head in a gas oven and died at the age of 41.


In the end it was not the police who got Leigh and Devine, but the taxman. Leigh had once lived in a grand terrace on Lansdowne Street in Surry Hills (below), but by the 1950s she was bankrupt and forced to live in a ''squalid'' room at 212 Devonshire Street, from where she had once operated a sly-groggery. When the government ended the six o'clock swill in 1955, Leigh was out of business. She died on February 4, 1964 at St Vincent's Hospital, after suffering a stroke. 


For Devine, who had once owned properties throughout the inner-city and eastern suburbs, including a terrace at 145 Brougham Street, Woolloomooloo (below), the end was equally unglamorous. Devine quit crime in 1968 and struggled to make ends meet on the old age pension. She died at Concord Repatriation Hospital, in Sydney's west, on November 24, 1970.


Writer's extremely well-researched book really brings this period of Sydney's history alive. 
Since it was published in 2001, it has inspired a GPS-guided tour, a stage show, and now a television series. Judging by this website, there could also be a film in the works.
Devine has also been remembered, with a small bar in Crown Lane named after her.

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UPDATE: Interview with Razor author Larry Writer

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Across the Border: Surry Hills Blog: Food: The Falconer

This is a post dedicated to one of my most favourite people in the world, Nicky, who I miss terribly, since she left for London about a year ago. Nicky used to always go to The Falconer cafe on Oxford Street and would rave about its great food, excellent music and the three very friendly men who run it. 
Nicky is a young bean. I didn't tell her that I remembered the cafe at 31 Oxford Street in its previous incarnation, when it was called Aristotles, had a round, glass cake cabinet in the window and would sell cocktails to under-age teenagers such as myself and my friends, way back in the dark ages. My friends and I especially liked it for its very cool American-style booth seating and its location right on Oxford Street, close to the nightclubs we would frequent. But I hadn't been there for years.


So while pining for Nicky's safe and hopefully imminent return, I decided to check out The Falconer and see if my little doll-face - for that is what I call her - was raving about the place with good reason.
The booths are still there, the cake cabinet is gone and I wouldn't dare suggest that the three men who run The Falconer would sell booze to under-age teenagers. But they do serve wine, beer and ''hard liquor'' from midday, according to their menu, which is never a bad thing.


The Falconer serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is open until midnight from Tuesday to Saturday, and offers breakfast and lunch on Sundays and Mondays. The lunch menu starts at about $9 for the Soup of the Day and goes up to $20 for the Pasta of the Day, which is served with a glass of wine, beer or soft drink. 
There are also other items such as toasted gourmet sandwiches ($8.50), Grilled Wagyu Beef Burger with Celeriac Remoulade, Salsa Ross and ''One Big Mean Pickle'' ($18), as well as Orecchiette with Braised Hillside Lamb Ragu, Sicilian Olives, Eschallots and Tomatoes ($19). And they also do shoestring fries ($6).


The first time I went to The Falconer, I had the sandwich (above), which I think was filled with poached chicken, celery, walnuts and mayonnaise. It was delicious and didn't take long to arrive, which was good  because I was in a hurry and had already pre-ordered my coffee to go. The second time I went, I ordered the Caesar Salad with Shredded Organic Chicken Breast ($15):


The salad was a bit rich for my liking, as it was dressed in that sort of mayonnaisey dressing and it came with a boiled egg, which always creeps me out a bit when combined with chicken. It's like a weird family reunion on the plate.
I should say that I am very fussy when it comes to Caesar Salads as I have been making my own dressing for years, from a recipe given to me by a chef at a cafe I used to waitress at. And so far, I have never eaten a salad as good as my own. 
But I am still looking forward to going back and trying their pastas and soups. A woman on the table next to me ordered the Barley and White Bean Soup and when it arrived the aroma hit me and I was jealous and wanted to swap plates, but of course I kept quiet. 


Nicky was right about the three young men who run the place. They are awfully friendly and eager to please. I also suspect she likes them because they are rather good looking too. And then there's the music, which is selected from this healthy and well-organised record collection (above right). 
I also like the pared back design of the place: the old booths, the white walls and wooden furnishings. Decoration is minimal, in fact it's almost like a set, where the customers are fascinating characters in an obscure David Lynch-style film. And the customers really are a bunch of diverse characters, ranging from office workers to hip girls in pretty dresses, old eccentrics and swarthy, young, male tourists. 
I would highly recommend becoming part of the cast.


*
The Falconer
31 Oxford Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
02 9267 8434

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Darlinghurst: Detritus: NSW State Election 2011

In case you hadn't noticed there is a state election coming up in 10 days. Power poles around Darlinghurst and Sydney are covered in placards featuring the grinning faces of those who wish to represent our neighbourhood's needs on a state level, while on the streets politicians and would-be politicians are handing out flyers in a bid to win our votes.
Last weekend Kings Cross Markets at Fitzroy Gardens was full of pollies. Outgoing NSW Premier Kristina Keneally wandered around the gardens with a bunch of NSW Police's finest and Sydney Lord Mayor and State Member for Sydney, Clover Moore. There was also a couple of people handing out fliers for the Australian Sex Party's candidate Andrew Patterson. 
It doesn't seem as heady as it was in the lead-up to the federal election in September last year, when you could barely walk through the gardens without being harassed by Malcolm Turnbull, but the state pollies are putting up a good enough fight.
Without revealing my personal political preferences, Christian Democrats candidate Peter Madden would be wise to crawl back in to whatever dark and damp place on earth he emerged from.


Darlinghurst is in the Seat of Sydney, which covers an area of about 91sqkm of the CBD and the inner east and includes suburbs such as Pyrmont, Ultimo, Chippendale, Surry Hills, Edgecliff, Woollahra and all islands in Sydney Harbour. 
Ms Moore has held the seat since 1988, when it was known as Bligh. The seat was renamed Sydney in 2007 when it gained the CBD in a redistribution. Ms Moore has also held the office of Lord Mayor since 2004.
The City of Sydney remains a very safe seat for Moore with a 16.6 per cent margin over Labor. 
So who are the alternatives and what are their policies? Here is a quick potted look at the five main candidates for the seat. Click on the candidates's names to visit their websites.

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I know that Ms Moore likes dogs and cycleways, but I can't find a list of policies or election promises on her website. I received one of her pamphlets in the mail but it only talks about the things she has done in the past, which date back to 1993 and include the introduction of the Same Sex Adoption Bill, changes to the liquor licensing laws to encourage small bars, and some changes to strata legislation.

Mr Blumen has lived in Sydney for 10 years, holds a doctorate in pure mathematics, is a national energy policy advisor and a past president of the 2011 Residents's Association. He presently lives in Elizabeth Bay. His vision for Sydney includes reducing alcohol-related violence, campaigning for marriage equality and introducing early intervention programs for people experiencing homelessness. 
''I stand for a Sydney that is an even better place to live, has a full time voice in parliament and is diverse and inclusive,'' he writes on his election material. 
''This is my vision for the Sydney I love.''
Mr Blumen also supports a national price on carbon. He has taken aim at Ms Moore by promising to be a full-time MP and says he wants to reclaim community rights to appeal State Government development decisions.

Mr Bartels is just 33 and a mortgage broker with his own Potts Point-based business, Bartels Property Finance. He was raised on Sydney's north shore and moved to the city electorate 14 years ago. Mr Bartels is the chairman of the Potts Point Partnership, which supports local businesses. He is opposed to the demolition and re-development of Fitzroy Gardens. 
Mr Bartels also promises to be a full-time MP, unlike Ms Moore, who juggles positions. As part of the new wave of Liberal thinking, he believes in climate change science and wants an investment in renewable energy technology to create jobs for Sydney. Mr Bartels also wants a whole of government approach to managing late night areas and reducing alcohol-related violence. 

Ms Brierley Newton was born and raised in Sydney and is the former head of the Billy Blue School of Graphic Art. She presently runs a communications and advertising consultancy, but promises to be a full-time MP and to run for ''the people of Sydney and not corporations''. 
Ms Brierley Newton wants to extend the city's light rail from Central to Circular Quay and the new suburb of Barangaroo, as well as introducing high speed rail between Sydney and other capital cities. She wants greater investment in renewable energy technology and promises to protect the city's food supply by zoning land on the Sydney fringes as agricultural, so that it can't be developed. 

Mr Patterson spent 13 years with the Western Australia Police, working up to Detective Sergeant and specialising in child protection and the adult industry. He was a former chief investigator with the NSW Independent Commission Against Corruption and presently works as an internal ombudsman with the Waringah Council in the city's northern suburbs. He lives in Ultimo. 
Mr Patterson joined the Australian Sex Party last year because he is a strong believer in civil liberties, and holds a masters in ethics and legal studies. He wants to extend trial ethics classes to all public schools, introduce voluntary euthanasia laws and stop police sniffer dogs in venues and on the streets. Mr Patterson also advocates for the decriminalisation of drugs for personal use and wants drug use to be treated as a health issue and not a criminal one. He also wants to extend the use of drug injecting rooms beyond Kings Cross. The party would also campaign for 24-hour weekend public transport and would argue against internet filtering. 

Mr Madden is the director of Heal Our Land Ministries, a frightening religious cult. He claims to be a former sex addict so, naturally, he is now anti-prostitution and wants to halve the number of brothels in Sydney over the next eight years. Mr Madden wants to move Mardis Gras off the streets and in to a stadium, as a bid to curb teenage binge drinking and teenage pregnancy. I really don't want to waste any more time on this bozo, so if you are interested in his polices, visit his website. That's him on the right, with CDP leader Fred Nile. 

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Election day is Saturday March 26. Polling places open from 8am to 6pm. 
Polling places in Darlinghurst include St John's Church Hall, Darlinghurst Public School, St Vincent's Hospital and St Peter's Church Playhouse (Forbes Street). 
For more details about pre-polling and enrolling, visit the Australian Electoral Commission's Vote NSW website:

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Across the Border: Surry Hills: Bars: Yulli's

I was looking forward to a middy of New at my favourite Surry Hills pub on Thursday night and was already in the door when my friend, Eames Periwinkle said, ''Let's keep going, there's a new pub around the corner''. 
I looked longingly at the tap of New - yes, I have bogan beer tastes - and then reluctantly followed my friend back out in to a humid Surry Hills evening. 
"So, what's this new pub?'' I asked as we set off down Crown Street.
"They sell beer, you'll like it,'' he said.
''But is it expensive, because I'm a bit broke,'' I said.
''Don't worry, you'll like it and the bar man is really nice. He is the nicest bar man in Surry Hills.''
So with that in mind, I carried on with him down the street and then just across the road from the Clock Hotel, we pulled in to the door of Yulli's. 


I don't know what young Eames's definition of a pub is, but Yulli's is actually more of a bar and restaurant. As we walked inside, the place was full of people eating. There was food being devoured everywhere. 
But you don't have to eat if you don't want to.
Eames headed straight to the bar and ordered two Stone and Wood draught ales, which are brewed in Byron Bay. It was all a bit fancy pants and at $6.80 for a beer, I was wistfully thinking of my $3 middy, but then Eames introduced me to The Nicest Bar Man in Surry Hills.


Karl Cooney managed bars in the Sydney CBD before he and his girlfriend opened up Yulli's about a year ago. Cooney was shockingly unpretentious for a Sydney bar owner and hastily made us welcome by re-arranging some outdoor tables and chairs so we could enjoy the balmy night air.
Yulli's has one large main room, the footpath tables where we sat, as well as a narrow, open air alley out the back. 
I hastily settled in to my footpath spot where Eames and I efficiently knocked back about three or four beers. I suspect the alcohol content in a Stone and Wood draught ale is much higher than in the old New. 
Eames had to leave after that but his seat was smoothly taken by another friend, Jayne Green, who had just arrived back in Sydney after a day on the road and was urgently in need of beer. So she joined me for another Stone and Wood.
Wisely we also decided to order some food and Cooney magically appeared on cue with some menus and suggestions. His first recommendation was for the Salt and Pepper Tofu, served with a green papaya salad ($15.50).


The tofu was deliciously crunchy on the outside and was so yummy with the sweet and sour papaya salad. 
The Yulli's menu ranges in price from $12.50 for Steamed Leak and Ginger Dumplings with fresh plum sauce, up to $17.50 for Eggplant Involtini, which is basically grilled eggplant, stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and spinach, topped with lemongrass and tomato sauce. 
There's also a yummy sounding Porcini Mushroom and Haloumi Pizza with kalamata olives, topped with rocket ($16.50), or Zucchini Flowers Stuffed with Hazelnut Ricotta, served with chili mayo, wasabi mayo and balsamic ($13.50). 
It was only after much indecision about what to order and after consulting with Cooney that we learned the menu was exclusively vegetarian. How's that for a novelty? I must tell my vego friend, Sarah Allely, of Billie Bites fame. 
In fact, after Cooney told us it was all vego, I begged him to put Sarah's Pecan and Tofu Sausage Rolls on the menu. But while Cooney is The Nicest Bar Man in Surry Hills, he leaves the chef job to someone else. 
We also ordered some dumplings that were on the specials board. They were fried and delicious, but I can't remember what was in them or how much they cost. Too much Stone and Wood I suspect.


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Yulli's Bar and Restaurant
417 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
02 9319 6609

Monday, January 17, 2011

Across the Border: Surry Hills: Street Art: Pew Pew

Pew Pew is the sound guns make when firing bullets. I'm not sure what this stencil dude is up to, but he has been grinning his 70s porn star style grin from the footpath of Campbell Street in neighbouring Surry Hills for quite some time. He has weathered well too, although his Pew Pew is more Pew Iew these days.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Across the Border: Woolloomooloo: Retailers: Glendinnings

You've possibly walked right by this shop on Cowper Wharf Road in Woolloomooloo and never noticed it, or if you did, maybe you stood at the window and looked in at the naval badges on display, metaphorically shrugged your shoulders and thought, ''hmm, obscure''. 
Glendinnings Menswear certainly is a niche shop, specialising in Navy uniforms, merchant marine uniforms, charter vessel uniforms and other naval supplies. But considering it is right across the road from the Royal Australian Navy's East Fleet Base at Garden Island, the location is perfect. 


Most of the Navy's main fleet was in port, except for HMAS Success, which is in Singapore being re-hulled, and another couple of submarines are at HMAS Sterling in Western Australia, while there are a few other ships in Darwin and the Gulf.
How do I know this? I learned a lot about the Navy when I popped in to Glendinnings to have a snoop around, as I do.
The shop was established at Woolloomooloo in 1951 to make and supply naval uniforms but has since branched out to include racks and racks of surf-wear labels including clothes, hats, sunglasses, back-packs and shoes for men and women.


Glendinnings also has branches at a handful of other Navy bases around Australia, so it has become a first stop for sailors as they return home. They also sell toasters and other electrical goods.


The shop is owned by Dennis Stokes who runs it alongside his son, Jason. They also have a team of about three or four other sales people and a crew of seamstresses and tailors.


Endless Navy mementos.


This HMAS Kuttabul thing being shown below, is called a Tally Band and is just one component of the Navy's full-on dress requirements. Seriously, they must take hours to dress in the morning, especially when they have an official or formal event to attend. 


Take, for example, this simple sailor's collar (below), which comes with four components: the collar, a bow-tie, a length of thick string and a black satin band. 


The collar is first buttoned on to the sailor's jacket, with the black band placed underneath and secured with the bow-tie. The string then has to be knotted and placed in a certain way so that it runs under and over the collar before finally picking up the bow-tie at the end. Even Dennis had a hard time trying to piece it all together. 


I loved the sailor collar so much, and it only cost about $25, so I asked for one for Christmas - which I received! I also loved it when I was taken to the sewing room out the back of the shop, where Betty, Vanessa and another tailor were hard at work making naval uniforms.


It's hard to believe but most of the naval and merchant sailor uniforms and components are made right here by this small team of three hard workers. They make the trousers, the jackets, the shirts and other little bits and pieces. Glendinnings is actually renowned around the world, especially for its shirts, which are made of cotton. British merchant sailors are issued with their uniforms in London, but their shirts are made from a rather thick and sweat-inducing fabric, so when they visit the tropics they nearly pass out from the heat. Savvy sailors have started ordering the cotton shirts from Glendinnings with the Woolloomooloo shop sending out batches of parcels every day. Some British sailors order eight to ten of the shirts at a time. 


As a former seamstress, I was tempted to sit down at one of the ready-machines and put my foot down, but I restricted myself to just taking photos of all the beautiful trimmings, such as these striped naval ribbons for carrying medals:


Vanessa was working the embroidery machines, stitching names on to fabric patches:


Betty was busy pressing the seams of a pair of white Navy trousers she had just sewn:


I would have like to have chatted with Betty at length but she was busy and I didn't want to disturb her for too long. Betty was born and raised in Surry Hills and recalls the Razor Gangs of the late 1930s or 40s. She said a couple of fellas in the gangs lived up the road from her on Albion Street, Surry Hills. I asked if they were rough and scary and she said, ''not at all, they were just regular blokes''.
I also asked her about Ruth Park, the novelist who wrote about Surry Hills during the late 1940s and who died on December 14, aged 93. But Betty was not a fan of Park and claimed the author had got it wrong about the neighbourhood. This was a common criticism of Park, who was born in New Zealand. Many Australians did not appreciate her depiction of the neighbourhood and its poor living conditions in her novels The Harp in the South and Poor Man's Orange. 
So I said goodbye to Betty, Vanessa, Dennis, Jason and the gang and headed across the road to Harry's Cafe de Wheels for a disgusting pie, where I bumped in to actor Russell Crowe and which I will write about in a forthcoming post. 

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Glendinnings Menswear
Shops 2 and 3
7-41 Cowper Wharf Road
Woolloomooloo NSW 2011
02 9358 4097