Showing posts with label Sydney Opera House. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sydney Opera House. Show all posts

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Darlinghurst Blog: History: Books: Trams


A well-placed source of historical photographs last week sent me some great 1940s colour images of trams trundling down Darlinghurst and Sydney streets.  
They belong to a private collector and as far as I know have never before been published, so it's an honour to be able to reproduce them here.
I had a hard time placing where exactly the photograph above was taken and had to refer to a tram line map (below, Copyright John R Newland, 2010) to see exactly where the lines ran.


I believe the photograph at the top of this post shows the 'Special' turning off Oxford Street and into Greens Road, Paddington, on its way to Moore Park. In the background there is a smokestack, which I assumed belonged to the Royal Hospital for Women in Paddington (which still marks the horizon today), but it would be in completely the wrong position if that is Greens Road. If anyone can identify it, please let me know.


This one, above, was definitely taken at the corner of Greens Road and Oxford Street. As my source says, the "luminous" colour photographs "have a depth and intensity of colour that only film from that era seems to provide. Gems!".


Here's another one, above, showing the trams cruising down Oxford Street. Again, that smokestack is in the background.


The photograph above shows a tram turning from Elizabeth Street into Liverpool Street, on its way to Oxford Street. The trams really were beautiful with their lovely heritage green and cream, with red-trim, paint. They also, for some undefinable reason, remind me of great big caterpillars wriggling along the streets.


The photographs also brought to mind a book I received early last year: Bondi to the Opera House, the trams that linked Sydney, by Dale Budd and Randall Wilson.
The 92-page book was published by the Australian Railway Historical Society (NSW division) and is a comprehensive and educational look at Sydney's tram system, once one of the world's largest.
Budd and Wilson are certainly passionate about the Sydney trams, which scuttled along the streets from 1879 to 1961, and one of the things I love about the book is that they place contemporary photographs alongside historical ones, such as this one:


According to the caption information, Bennelong Point, now the site of the Sydney Opera House, was once home to a tram depot designed by government architect Walter Vernon. 
Trams terminating at the Fort Macquarie depot would arrive on the western side, while those beginning another trip would travel around the depot to its eastern side to make their first stop at the Man O' War Steps.
The ornamental tower you can see in the top left corner of the depot housed an elevated water tank - the  early 20th century version of fire safety.
Prior to the tram depot being built in 1901, the headland was home to the real Fort Macquarie: a square stone fortress with an armament of 24-pound guns and five 6-pounders. Boom.

A tram climbs through the Bronte cutting, now a car park (Copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson).

According to the authors, "the Sydney tram system extended from Narrabeen in the north, to La Perouse in the south; from Bondi in the east to Ryde in the west.
"From the 1920s to the 1940s there were up 1,500 trams operating on 290km of lines serving the city and more than 70 suburbs. Trams carried more than a million people every weekday."

Tram passengers line up at Market Street stop on Elizabeth Street, Central Sydney (Copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson).

There are more than 250 photographs in the book, featuring trams in a vast array of suburbs including Birchgrove and Balmain, Botany and West Kensington, Manly and Milsons Point. There are also a couple showing William Street and Kings Cross.
Most of the photographs were taken by John Alfred, who apparently "had a special talent for spotting unusual vantage points, often elevated," the book says.
"Starting in the 1950s he took more than 4,500 colour transparencies of Sydney trams: his total body of work amounted to more than 21,000 images, almost all of trams and trains throughout Australia."
Alfred died in 1969 - in a road accident - and his photographs are now in the collection of the Mitchell Library, part of the State Library of NSW. 
The authors owe him a great debt. 


One of the Kings Cross photographs in the book is identical to the one above, which I have framed on my wall. My father picked it up at a garage sale in the 70s. The only clue to its origin is the name of the framer printed on the back: Mr Frame of Wetherill Park. But I think it was a common travel pic of the 1940s as I have seen it before in many places.

 Pic copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson.

This photograph (above) showing the tram passing within a few metres of The Gap is one of my favourites in the book. I would have loved to have ridden that tram. The authors say the view would have been "stunning"

Pic copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson.

Back in the 1950s some major fool decided to start closing off the electric tram lines and replace them with diesel buses, the same vehicles that today emit such a foul stench and ear-grating noise throughout the city. Bravo.
The photograph above shows the last tram in George Street, Central Sydney, in November 1958. 
"It is after midnight, a wreath has been attached and everyone is trying to get into the newspaper photographer's picture," the caption says.
"This scene was repeated many times as the tram network was progressively closed down."

 Pic copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson.

The La Perouse and Maroubra routes were the last to be served by the trams, with the final day of operation on 25 February 1961.
"Travellers packed aboard the trams and crowds gathered at vantage points along the route," the book says.
The very last tram (pictured above) was "jammed to the rafters" and it would be "36 years before a tram again carried passengers in Sydney."

Pic copyright: From Bondi to the Opera House, by Budd and Wilson.

Some of the trams were donated to various institutions and museums, such as the Sydney Tramway Museum at Loftus, south of Sydney. Many other trams were burned to death, as illustrated in this very sad photograph above.
Trams, or light rail, returned to Sydney in 1997 and the authors hope that this network is expanded.
The City of Sydney is pushing the NSW Government to commit to an expanded network, including the addition of a line along George Street, which they would like to close off to north-south traffic.
Part of their vision is detailed on their website, which is worth visiting just to see, at the bottom of the page, a film that was shot in 1906 by someone on the top of a vehicle cruising down George Street
The animation at the top of the page showing what George Street would look like with trams today is also pretty cool.
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From Bondi to the Opera House, the trams that linked Sydney
By Dale Budd and Randall Wilson
Australian Railway Historical Society (NSW)
92pp, $39.95

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Darlinghurst: Detritus: Mardis Gras 2011

This Saturday Oxford Street in Darlinghurst will be closed to traffic to make way for the annual Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardis Gras parade, now in its 33rd year.
The 16-day Mardis Gras festival launched on February 19 and there have been daily events and performances since then, including Fair Day at Victoria Park at inner-city Glebe, the Lifesavers with Pride beach BBQ and carnival at Tamarama Beach and the Mardis Gras Film Festival. 
United States author Armistead Maupin, who wrote the excellent and addictive Tales of the City series about San Francisco's gay community in the 1970s and 80s, is also giving a reading and being interviewed at a literary event TONIGHT at the Sydney Opera House. Tickets cost between $39 and $59, plus booking fee and you can purchase them here.


Darlinghurst has been abuzz with Mardis Gras fever since the festival was launched. There are loads of gay tourists on the streets taking photographs and holding maps, while there are dozens of posters plastered up around the neighbourhood advertising special Mardis Gras offers and events. 
The first Sydney Mardis Gras was held on Saturday June 24, 1978, as part of international Gay Solidarity Celebrations to promote gay and lesbian rights. You would think we have come a long way since then, but gay and lesbian people still have to fight to gain equality and acceptance in the community. Even in Darlinghurst. 


Peter Madden is the Christian Democrat Party's candidate for the Seat of Sydney in the state election on March 26. Mr Madden - perhaps unsurprisingly given the party's long stance against gay people - is running on a platform that includes putting an end to the Sydney Mardis Gras parade. Madden claims the festival is ''sexually immoral'' and believes the parade is an opportunity for gay and lesbian people to ''recruit'' young people.
Okay, he is completely mad, but I still can't believe people believe this shit in 2011. 
Mr Madden aside, gay and lesbian couples in Australia are still fighting for the right to be legally wed, with many being forced to travel overseas to the United States or Canada, where it is legal, just to get married. 
There was an interesting Crikey article this week, by Tom Cowie, about whether Mardis Gras is still relevant and it's worth reading just for the comments by readers. 


The parade begins at Hyde Park and travels up Oxford Street and then along Flinders Street to Moore Park for the Post Parade Party at the Royal Hall of Industries. The parade consists of over 100 colourful floats surrounded by dancers. Most of the floats have a political or comic theme and some regulars include Dykes on Bikes, Tits on Trucks and Muscle Marys.
I was going to write a potted history about the parade but the Sydney Mardis Gras website has that covered, so instead I will just pull out some interesting little facts and curios about the event, for which this year's theme is Say Something



About 1500 people attended the first Mardis Gras parade. They met at Taylor Square and then marched behind a truck equipped with a sound system down Oxford Street to Hyde Park. They were harassed by police officers along the way because holding such a demonstration was illegal. Many revellers ran up William Street to Darlinghurst Road to escape the police, but instead were met by a road block where officers swooped and arrested 53 people, who were allegedly beaten in the cells.  
It wasn't a good start but it paved the way for legislative change in 1979 when NSW Parliament created a new Public Assemblies Act that allowed people to apply for a permit to hold such a large demonstration.


In 1979, 3000 people marched in the parade. 
In 2009, 10,000 people marched in the parade.
About 500,000 people turned out to watch the parade in 1993.


At the height of the AIDS scare in 1985, the parade was nearly cancelled when the head of Australia's AIDS Task Force controversially appealed to ''the gays to be responsible enough to cancel the Mardis Gras activities''. The parade went ahead but organisers of the Post Parade Party had to pay double for the venue hire to placate the owner.


The Mardis Gras parade was first broadcast on television in 1994 in a 50-minutes highlights special on the ABC. In 1997 the event was broadcast by commercial channel, Network Ten, and this year it will be screened live on pay-TV channel Arena, from 7.30pm.


About 2 million birds worldwide are plucked to provide enough feathers for the Sydney Mardis Gras. 
Sequin factories in China have to work overtime for three months to supply an estimated 20 million spangly sequins for the event.


The Mardis Gras festival attracts thousand of international and interstate visitors, generating an estimated $39 million in tourist dollars for the NSW economy.


Boy George, The Village People, Chaka Khan, Jimmy Barnes, Kylie Minogue, Danni Minogue, George Michael and Cyndi Lauper are just some of the musicians that have performed at the Mardis Gras's Post Parade Party, which attracts up to 20,000 people.
This year the Mardis Gras Party is being held at the Royal Hall of Industries and the Hordern Pavilion at the Entertainment Quarter at Moore Park, but the big act has yet to be announced. 


Darlinghurst's Stonewall Hotel at 175 Oxford Street is named after the original Stonewall Inn in New York's Greenwich Village. The Stonewall Inn was owned by the mafia during the 1950s and 60s and was a popular place for the city's most marginalised residents, including gay and lesbian people. 
On June 28, 1969 the inn was raided by police, who regularly targeted gay bars, and a riot ensued. 
The tensions between the police and gay and lesbian citizens intensified over the following weeks leading to the establishment of resident activist groups that campaigned for equal rights and organised venues where gay and lesbian people could socialise without fear of being arrested.


There are NO car spaces in Darlinghurst on Mardis Gras night, so leave your vehicle at home if you are coming in to the neighbourhood. Just for fun, why not catch the 311 Bus?
P.S. I made up those statistics about the feather and sequins.

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Friday, October 29, 2010

Darlinghurst: Food: Miss Chu

Ah, Miss Chu, I missed you. For a while there, I thought I may never eat here again after Ruby Molteno decided she had eaten enough Miss Chu to earn her honorary Vietnamese citizenship. Ruby lives across the road, you see, and she quickly became addicted to Miss Chu's efficient service, delicious desserts and handy location on Bourke Street.
So Ruby went on a Miss Chu fast, which happily for me, ended last week.
From afar Miss Chu's shopfront doesn't look all that interesting. But move closer and you'll find the finest Vietnamese attention to detail, character and colour:

The service window with bamboo awning, bamboo steamers and bunches of bananas.

The blackboard specials with opening hours.
Note: Miss Chu does not open weekends.

Some extra specials

So you order at the little window, give the server your name and within 10-15 minutes your food is ready in a white paper bag. If you don't want to take it with you, you can eat it at a little footpath table:

Because we were breaking a fast, we ordered up big and spent about $45 on food for two:

Fresh Vietnamese Rice Paper Rolls - $6 for two

Deep Fried Spring Rolls - $5 for four

Lemongrass Beef Vermicelli Salad - $12
We also ordered some Traditional Peking Duck Pancakes ($2.20 each) and Steamed Dumplings ($5 for three), but I scoffed them before I remembered to pull out my camera. Oh, and I ordered a dessert too, which was like a coconut agar-agar wrapped in a banana leaf jewel box ($3).

Refreshing Lychee Crushie - $4.50

Now there's something I really should tell you about Miss Chu. She doesn't take any shit and has zero tolerance for idiots. But lucky for this idiot Miss Chu's present target is the City of Sydney council who last week fined her $3000 for loud music and for having more outdoor tables than she is permitted. Soon after, this sign appeared in her window:
WHAT NO MUSIC??
No because the City of Sydney Council received an anonymous call complaining of misschu's music and extra seating on the footpath so council were obliged to issue us with a $3000 fine; and no, council will not approve our application for more seating other than the existing nine chairs and three tables which were originally approved 25 years ago, and definitely no music!

And then in finer print:

Misschu will move out of the neighbourhood when our lease is up so that the neighbourhood can return to its foccacia and muffin greasy average food ways and those who love it the misschu way can still order in - we'll just deliver to you from our new store at the Opera House on our electric push bikes.


The Electric Push-Bikes

I told you Miss Chu was feisty. But the predicament outlined in her ballsy letter, just exemplifies the stupidity of the City of Sydney council who publicly say they are promoting the "Villages of Sydney" in trendily-designed fliers that bomb our mailboxes, but then behind the scenes refuse to be reasonable to small business owners.
The letter also highlights the nonsensical fools who move to buzzing, busy Darlinghurst and then complain about noise. I believe the complainant lives on William Street, which is possibly one of the noisiest streets in the neighbourhood, so I am assuming that personal reasons - and not noise - were behind their complaint to council. Or perhaps they really are a fool.
I just hope Miss Chu is not being serious about the move to the Sydney Opera House when her lease expires next year. As the Queen of Vietnamese Finger Food, she already provides catering for the Opera House, so it's not such a big leap. And she already offers electric-bike home delivery within a 1km radius of the Miss Chu tuck-shop, so that's nothing new either.
Oh, Miss Chu, please don't leave us to die a slow food death from foccacia and muffin-greasy-average-food!


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Miss Chu
1/150 Bourke Street
Darlinghurst NSW 2010
02 8356 9988