Showing posts with label Cowper Wharf Road. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cowper Wharf Road. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Darlinghurst: Detritus: Flying Dream


I had a dream last night that I was flying above Sydney. 


I came in from the harbour and soared over Woolloomooloo.


I wanted to fly home to my bed but the wind was strong and my wings weren't powerful enough. So I glided downwards where I was protected by tall buildings and I flew along the streets back towards Darlinghurst, round the bend of Cowper Wharf Road, over Wylde and on up to William Street.


It was a strange flight. 
The streets were deserted and looked more like they had been torn from the pages of a three-dimensional street directory.


Darlinghurst did not look the same.
Many buildings were missing and there were deep holes in the ground. 
My apartment had vanished, so I flew on, looking for signs of life. 


Even at Central Station and Hyde Park there was no one to be seen. 
So I flew back towards the harbour, from where I had come; over the Opera House I flew and continued on out towards the Pacific Ocean.


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Thursday, January 20, 2011

Across the Border: Woolloomooloo: Food: Harry's Cafe de Wheels

Harry Edwards first operated a pie shop out of a caravan at Woolloomooloo in the 1930s, right outside the gates of the Garden Island Naval Base. Edwards closed the caravan in 1938 to join the Australian Imperial Forces fighting in the Middle East during World War 2.
When Edwards returned to Sydney in 1945 he was disappointed to discover that the city hadn't changed and you still couldn't ''get a good feed late at night''. 
Edwards opened up his caravan again and it has been selling pies from a spot east of the wharf on Cowper Wharf Road in Woolloomooloo ever since. 
The caravan pie shop was initially just called Harry's but council regulations required mobile food vans to move at least 12 inches each day. So wheels were a necessity, and the pie shop became known as Harry's Cafe de Wheels.
Edwards ran the business for 30 years before selling to Alex Koronya in 1975, who in turn sold it in 1988 to Michael Hannah, who still runs it today.
Harry's was classified by the NSW branch of the National Trust of Australia in 2004 and was described as a ''quintessential Sydney icon and an institution''.


During it's 56 years, Harry's has become a bit of a tourist destination, perhaps because of its history and its location, right on the water at Woollomooloo. International guests also probably think it's quite a novelty to eat a meat pie, perhaps the only Australian cuisine they know about. 
Harry's is covered in photographs of all the famous people who have dined on a pie on the footpath outside the caravan. There are pictures of Elton John, Brooke Shields and British comedians Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley, who appear dressed as their characters from the television show, Absolutely Fabulous.


There is also a photograph of Colonel Harland Sanders, aka the King of Kentucky Fried Chicken, scoffing down a Harry's meat pie and sauce in 1972.
Colonel Sanders was no doubt amazed that he had managed to find a food product that had less nutritional value than his own deep fried chicken. Still, despite Colonel Sanders's greasy diet, I must point out that he lived to the age of 90.


I suppose another reason Harry's has survived for 56 years is that it is open until 2am and 3am early in the week and until 4am on Friday and Saturday nights. I imagine that Harry's sells more pies in those hours after midnight than it does throughout the rest of the day.

It was day time when I visited Harry's and I wasn't drunk - two good reasons why I probably should not have eaten there. 
The menu features the Harry's Tiger, a meat pie topped with mash and mushy peas, but I could not find the Pie Floater listed. Harry's was famous for its Pie Floater - a meat pie floating upside down in pea soup.
I ordered the Lean Beef Pie with Mash, drizzled in tomato sauce and my friend had a Lean Beef Pie with Chili Beans. I quietly groaned when I saw the pie, but in the interests of research and my blog, I grabbed the plastic spoon and dug in to it. 
Well, for starters the mash on top was made from powdered potato mix and had that weird chemically taste. The rest tasted just like any other meat pie. Afterwards, I regretted eating it because I had that horrible feeling that I had just put something of zero nutritional value in my body. I swore to myself that for the next three days I would live on cucumbers and lettuce. Which of course I didn't.
The high point of my Harry's visit was seeing actor Russell Crowe and his two sons toddling along the wharf. Crowe has a top floor garden apartment at the very end of the Woolloomooloo Wharf, so this is his children's playground, I guess. The boys looked adorable with their big mops of hair, holding their father's hand. I snapped this picture from afar:



Yes, that is the back of Russell Crowe's head:


Those other two blokes were just passing by and look like they made some dumb joke.
Russell Crowe and the kidlings then made a beeline straight for Harry's. I don't know what they ordered and I didn't take any more pictures of them because I didn't want to invade their privacy. 
In fact, everyone who was eating outside Harry's acted very cool, and did not even glance in their direction. Don't you just love Sydney. 
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Harry's Cafe
Cowper Wharf Road, near the corner of Brougham Street
Woolloomooloo NSW 2011
02 9357 3074

Friday, January 7, 2011

Across the Border: Woolloomooloo: Retailers: Glendinnings

You've possibly walked right by this shop on Cowper Wharf Road in Woolloomooloo and never noticed it, or if you did, maybe you stood at the window and looked in at the naval badges on display, metaphorically shrugged your shoulders and thought, ''hmm, obscure''. 
Glendinnings Menswear certainly is a niche shop, specialising in Navy uniforms, merchant marine uniforms, charter vessel uniforms and other naval supplies. But considering it is right across the road from the Royal Australian Navy's East Fleet Base at Garden Island, the location is perfect. 


Most of the Navy's main fleet was in port, except for HMAS Success, which is in Singapore being re-hulled, and another couple of submarines are at HMAS Sterling in Western Australia, while there are a few other ships in Darwin and the Gulf.
How do I know this? I learned a lot about the Navy when I popped in to Glendinnings to have a snoop around, as I do.
The shop was established at Woolloomooloo in 1951 to make and supply naval uniforms but has since branched out to include racks and racks of surf-wear labels including clothes, hats, sunglasses, back-packs and shoes for men and women.


Glendinnings also has branches at a handful of other Navy bases around Australia, so it has become a first stop for sailors as they return home. They also sell toasters and other electrical goods.


The shop is owned by Dennis Stokes who runs it alongside his son, Jason. They also have a team of about three or four other sales people and a crew of seamstresses and tailors.


Endless Navy mementos.


This HMAS Kuttabul thing being shown below, is called a Tally Band and is just one component of the Navy's full-on dress requirements. Seriously, they must take hours to dress in the morning, especially when they have an official or formal event to attend. 


Take, for example, this simple sailor's collar (below), which comes with four components: the collar, a bow-tie, a length of thick string and a black satin band. 


The collar is first buttoned on to the sailor's jacket, with the black band placed underneath and secured with the bow-tie. The string then has to be knotted and placed in a certain way so that it runs under and over the collar before finally picking up the bow-tie at the end. Even Dennis had a hard time trying to piece it all together. 


I loved the sailor collar so much, and it only cost about $25, so I asked for one for Christmas - which I received! I also loved it when I was taken to the sewing room out the back of the shop, where Betty, Vanessa and another tailor were hard at work making naval uniforms.


It's hard to believe but most of the naval and merchant sailor uniforms and components are made right here by this small team of three hard workers. They make the trousers, the jackets, the shirts and other little bits and pieces. Glendinnings is actually renowned around the world, especially for its shirts, which are made of cotton. British merchant sailors are issued with their uniforms in London, but their shirts are made from a rather thick and sweat-inducing fabric, so when they visit the tropics they nearly pass out from the heat. Savvy sailors have started ordering the cotton shirts from Glendinnings with the Woolloomooloo shop sending out batches of parcels every day. Some British sailors order eight to ten of the shirts at a time. 


As a former seamstress, I was tempted to sit down at one of the ready-machines and put my foot down, but I restricted myself to just taking photos of all the beautiful trimmings, such as these striped naval ribbons for carrying medals:


Vanessa was working the embroidery machines, stitching names on to fabric patches:


Betty was busy pressing the seams of a pair of white Navy trousers she had just sewn:


I would have like to have chatted with Betty at length but she was busy and I didn't want to disturb her for too long. Betty was born and raised in Surry Hills and recalls the Razor Gangs of the late 1930s or 40s. She said a couple of fellas in the gangs lived up the road from her on Albion Street, Surry Hills. I asked if they were rough and scary and she said, ''not at all, they were just regular blokes''.
I also asked her about Ruth Park, the novelist who wrote about Surry Hills during the late 1940s and who died on December 14, aged 93. But Betty was not a fan of Park and claimed the author had got it wrong about the neighbourhood. This was a common criticism of Park, who was born in New Zealand. Many Australians did not appreciate her depiction of the neighbourhood and its poor living conditions in her novels The Harp in the South and Poor Man's Orange. 
So I said goodbye to Betty, Vanessa, Dennis, Jason and the gang and headed across the road to Harry's Cafe de Wheels for a disgusting pie, where I bumped in to actor Russell Crowe and which I will write about in a forthcoming post. 

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Glendinnings Menswear
Shops 2 and 3
7-41 Cowper Wharf Road
Woolloomooloo NSW 2011
02 9358 4097